1963 Bedford TK Restoration

Thanks for the heads up - i'll look for soemthing more substantial.
Cheers

Jolls wrote:

Thanks for the offer, does that heater draw air from the side or the floor? The TK has the vent on the floor - not that it really matters during winter but may need it open during summer. I'll see what I can dig out on a Trader. Cheers

The Trader heater draws air through the front on either side with the water piping flowing straight down in the middle allowing the cab to tilt. The fan duct is mounted under the passenger side dash with a secondary fan housing mounted under the centre of the dash and users basic wire slide controls.
The system can be clocked to draw air in through the floor if needed due to the air piping and still allows cool air to enter the cab in summer via the shut off flaps for the heater side.
I have 2 whole units complete in working condition.  1 for the older style cab on 1 for the newer cab.

The other 36 year old Trader is still a working truck and uses this style of heater everyday down here in winter, hence why I claim they work so well.

Basic parts drawing below. Mazda bus, which is the same shown.

I put a MiniMinor beehive in the rear of a 20ft motorhome I had back in the 1980s as it had seating for 4 in the rear and it kept everyone in the rear warm while travelling the snowfields.

Here you go, no electrics and free fuel. A pot of coffee on the boil as you cruise along. With that stack they will think you have a Detroit with the pump cranked to max.

 

The stove appears to be putting its best leg forward!

That foot would suggest the pot belly could serve double-duty as a foot bath maybe?  

Clever dual purpose, warm the casting up first, empty ashes, remove top half and rinse briefly, fill with fresh water (warming water as the casting is still warm), insert foot, presto!

On the real reason though . . . do you have a U-Pull-It yard near you?  Wander around and find one that works, many inexpensive items waiting for you to suss 'em out. Has always worked for me.  

Hi Team,

The old girl passed rego but I am having a couple of brake troubles now. The first is the that the vacuum switch has failed and the second is that the handbrake is also no longer functioning; in fact is does nothing. 

I have done a bit of research but haven't fond much so I thought it would be well worth seeking the wisdom of this forum before trolling the web further. I have found a few vacuum switches that may work but was sondering if anyone has a part number or aftermarket solution that will save me taking a bit of a punt on it being normally open or normally closed. 

On the handbrake front I have yet to pull it down but expect I need to either adjust or replacethe cable as the handbrake lever pulls all the way up with no resistance. Alternatively it could be the friction material has failed - can't hear any metal on metal grinding if I move the truck. Does anyone have a diagram/parts numbers for the handbrake components or any advice on where I may find it?

Cheers
Craig

 

I think I have resolved part of the vacuum switch problem. I located a Feb 1961 release wiring diagram for 1960 onwards TK Deisels. It shows the switch as being open (which would be in the operating condition) so it should be a normally closed circuit to have the light illuminated when the engine is not running or the vacuum fails. So now it is a matter of checking the thread and seeing what I can find; although an original part would be my ideal solution so if you have apart number I am all ears.

Cheers n Beers

So I was able to get the vacuum switch fixed. It was a PBR electro/mechanical part (no part number on it). A normally closed swich across two terminals connected by a metal disc that is attached to a diaphragm that is sandwiched between two spings. When the vacuum is applied it pulls the diaphragm off the contacts to open the circuit while the engine is running. Pretty simple design so I was able to pull it down, clean the contacts, hit the diaphragm with some Reare Spares rubber magic and put it back together. Typicl of old electrical connections the earth needed a good claen and it is now back in operation. Still interested in the part number if someone has it.

The hand brake not so good. The rear pad is worn the front like new. The rear face of the disc shows that the pad has been working the front side rusty and untouched. When the hand brake is pulled the mechanism operates until it binds up. The rear pad makes light contact and the front doesn't move. I expect that I will need to pull it all out, clean it up to work out whay the front actuatr is frozen and replace the pads. Once that is done I think we are back in business. If you know what the pad part numbers are that would be great, otherwise I will send them away to get rebonded. I have a place in Canberra that did a great job on my FC's brakes.

While I was testing the vacuum system a fountain of oil started spewing out of the rear of the vacuum pump (driven by the injector pump). The oil is at engine pressure into the rear of the pump - a 1/4 in copper line with an olive at each end. The hose is fine so I am wondering if the pressure is building up and being forced out past the olive. I need to do some research on the pump to see if there is an oil return. Any advice on this one would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
Craig

I think you'll find the oil drains back into the block via the shaft or hole that it mounts over.

Also, the oil feed pipe will be thin and 'calibrated' to restrict the flow.
Otherwise, the crank and bearings will be starved.

Same as the  restrictor in a turbo feed and in heads. (the valves don't need full flow)